Things to See and Do in Milan
To most people, Milan brings to mind one thing: fashion. It can thus be a little strange to note upon arrival that the city’s love for all things stylish is not exactly reflected in most of the plain, dull cityscape. The remnants of a postwar desire – or rather, need - to provide basic, no-frills living to the people of Milan are still felt clearly, with austerity radiating from the buildings, nothing to set one apart from another, no decorative touch to please the eye.
Milan, however, is a perfect example of the dictum that tells us not to judge a book by its cover; you need only enter one of those boring buildings and see the courtyard to know.
What Milan lacks in flair, it makes up for in spades through the charm of its people and products. Truth is, the residents of this European metropolis simply don’t have the time to deal with putting little wrought-iron bars on their balconies or pots of orchids in the window. They are busy with more important things: working and having fun in their city.
The magic happens quietly in Milan, so be prepared not to notice the moment you fall in love with the city. There is something strange about the most superficial business of all, fashion, being headquartered in a city that cares so little about appearances. This is endearing, somehow, and it is what ultimately inspires you to go out and explore.
1. The Last Supper
First and certainly most importantly, the thing any first-timer (and, to be honest, anyone on subsequent visits) must see is Da Vinci’s Last Supper. As you might imagine, this is not just any fresco. It isn’t one at all, in fact: instead of painting onto wet plaster, da Vinci chose to use tempera on drywall, probably so he could take his time with this masterpiece, the most famous wall-painting in the world. Seeing it is one of those few worldly experiences one doesn’t forget. You won’t just be able to recall what Jesus and his apostles looked like, painted with a master’s hand onto the wall of the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. You will remember the exact feeling you had when you saw it, the breath you took, the dry coolness of the air around you, the silence that befell you, and the joy you felt that this was conserved for one and all to see. The beauty of The Last Supper cannot be overstated and will not be forgotten. That’s a promise.
2. The Pinacoteca of Accademia di Brera
Pinacoteca means art gallery, and that’s what this complex attached to one of the oldest universities devoted to the arts is. Here, you can find paintings, statues, and other collections of renaissance (or Rinascimento) art from people like Raphael, Tintoretto, Bramantino, and Mantegna. What’s more, Ruben’s Last Supper is on display here, a variation on a familiar theme in Milan. Though it is nowhere near as famous as the other depiction of the biblical event, it is still a work of amazing artistry in its own right. Aside from that, there are a few Titians and Caravaggios thrown in for good measure. Yes, there’s a lot of crucifixion-themed art, and yes, it is all beautiful.
3. Via Monte Napoleone
One of the most famous shopping streets in the world, Via Monte Napoleone is considered to be the finest one. The cobblestone street leads you along flagship stores of all fashion brands you’ve ever heard of and a whole bunch you haven’t, and as you will clearly see, this street doesn’t mess around with things like fast fashion or sales as a concept. Virtually everything on display here is prohibitively expensive, with the looks and the attitude to go with it. The best thing to do on this street is window-shop. You won’t be too focused on what you’re missing out on, instead, remembering what you saw. Even better, come at night when the stores are shut, but the lights are still on.
4. Vintage Delirium
This legendary vintage store in via Guido Sacchi is the only place you need to go if you love fashion and want to see it condensed down into the essence of the very best. Lead and personally curated by the master of vintage himself, Franco Jacassi, this iconic store has the largest collection of vintage buttons anywhere in the world, and every nook and cranny hides a gem you won’t be able to find anywhere else. Bags from the 60’s, sunglasses from the 70’s, and unique pieces from Elsa Schiaparelli to Mary Quant, there is no end to the show here. Expertly selected and irresistible, the treasures at Vintage Delirium beat the previous entry hands down.
5. Navigli
The Navigli, or canal district, is a vibrant part of town where the locals hang out after the pesky business of work is out of the way. The Navigli provide a welcome break from all the concrete, and watching the water run down the Naviglio Grande is a balmy summer night’s joy. Come here in the evening, between seven and nine, to have an aperitivo on a terrace and watch the people of the city pass by. The feel in this neighborhood is one of jovial, let-your-hair-down ease, quite unlike the shined-shoes rigor of downtown. There are flea markets of all sorts for almost every day of the week, painters, buskers and beggars, children, dogs, and artful dodgers. Find cheaper drinks, louder laughter, and longer nights at the Navigli.
6. Galleria di Arte Moderna
While the past is an important part of the city’s culture, Milan is a city that looks forward. The art of thinking ahead in a beautiful manner, known to many simply as fashion, is not based in this town for nothing. Speaking of art and the future, one place worth visiting that may not be on top of most people’s lists is the gallery of modern art or GAM Milan. Set in the very classic Villa Reale, this collection includes Italian masterpieces of the eighteenth, nineteenth, and twentieth centuries, as well as works by big-name foreign artists like Cezanne, Picasso, and Manet. The tired, pale blue shade of the walls and the muted light from the chandeliers make this museum one of the most striking environments for any art to shine, whether that be a portrait of a nobleman or abstracts on canvas.
7. Duomo
The very unassuming spot towards the middle of this list is not reflective of the subject of this entry whatsoever. As said, Milan is not exactly known to be a beautiful town, and the industrial feel that permeates it makes that very clear. On a rainy day, there really isn’t much to the cityscape, save, of course, for the glorious Duomo. This church took almost six centuries to finish, which is a mighty long time even if you consider that it is the largest place of worship in all of Italy – since we’re not counting St. Peter’s Basilica in the separate nation of the Vatican. It was Napoleon Bonaparte, finally, who hurried things along with lofty promises concerning the budget and reimbursement, so that this most fascinating homage to God finally stands completed at the center of town. The short emperor was crowned king of Italy at the Duomo and even had a statue in his image placed on one of the spires. Today, you can visit the Duomo and even go to the very top of it, which opens up views of the city that are the best from anywhere in town. In the case that you are one of those people who have a hundred thousand euros lying around the house, you can adopt one of the gargoyles of the Duomo.
8. Fondazione Prada
When we say the cafe at the foundation was designed by noted director Wes Anderson, we know you know what it looks like: whimsical retro pastels meet more whimsical retro pastels. Once you’ve had your coffee from a dainty little cup, check out one of the changing exhibits at the foundation sponsored by that ever-so-refined and well-known fashion house, Prada. This edifice is dedicated to all things at the intersection of modernity and art, and the constantly changing contemporary collections are hand-picked by the same people who dress the models for fashion week. All that that means is that nothing at the Fondazione Prada is by accident or looks out of place in any way, which is no easy task when you consider the emperor-is-naked connotations that modern art often carries.
9. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
The oldest shopping mall in Italy was founded in 1861 and is still going strong. The mall was built on the street connecting the Piazza del Duomo to the Piazza della Scala and was given a very recognizable, massive cast iron and glass dome. While it may seem like it, not everything about the Galleria is highbrow. The cool, chic floors hide a quirky little secret: a bull, set into the tiles, whose nether regions have been worn down by generations of Italians who believe that twirling on one’s heel on this peculiar spot brings good luck. That, too, only if done in the correct way, which is clockwise and thrice, it is our duty to tell you. This may be the most attainable activity at this mall otherwise offering fine jewelry, silks, leather goods, and high fashion, although there is a McDonald’s on site as well.
10. La Scala
Sure, when someone says opera house, most people think of the one in Sydney. But when someone just says “opera” or even “ballet,” the Teatro alla Scala is what ought to come to mind. With plush, crimson brocade curtains, carpeting and seats, glimmering golden lights, and ladies singing arias, coming here for an event is sure to be an experience of a lifetime. But it isn’t a must: if, like the majority of people, you feel like three hours of sung storytelling is a bit much, you can also just visit the museum of La Scala, to learn about its history and the amazing shows that have been put on here and to take a gander at the stage of the largest opera house in Europe.
11. Alfa Romeo Museum
Though Alfa Romeo drivers don’t enjoy a great reputation among their Italian countrymen, this automobile brand is still one of the most famous ones in the nation, especially in the price bracket you could call reasonable. The instinctive, and in no way rational, problem Italians have with this car company may boil down to the fact that its founder was a Frenchman, who established Alfa Romeo in Milan in 1910. The odd name is not an homage to the NATO alphabet but an acronym of Anonima Lombarda Fabbrica Automobili and the last name, Romeo, of a man who took over the company in 1915. The museum dedicated to the brand on the outskirts of Milan is a wonderful day’s program for anyone who has simply had it with all the fashion and wants to look at engines and vehicles ranging from vintage cars to locomotives.
12. Plastic
A loud, down-and-dirty club like no other, Plastic is the premier LGBT disco in Milan. Opened in 1980, it has lost none of its quirky and queer funk, though it has made its way from a decidedly niche spot closer toward the mainstream. But it did so almost ironically, with a reluctant air, one that ensured it kept its character and the trust of its regular clientele intact. The door is famously tough to get through, so bring your best outfit and pretend you don’t really want to go in the first place. If that pans out, you’ve got until 5 a.m. to dance the night away at different genre halls in this unforgettably kitsch club filled with unbelievable characters.
13. Eataly
Now present all over the world from New York to Dubai, Eataly is still at home in Italy. Sort of a cross between a massive luxury supermarket and a canteen, this multi-level establishment sells only Italian products from all over the country. The focus is on food, a lot of which can be eaten at the restaurants in the food court, but there are cookbooks, pasta pots, and machines on sale as well. While the price point may be a little higher than it should, especially if you ask an Italian person, it is a great plus to have everything in one place, so you can take your time shopping for gifts and have it over with. From prosciutto to truffle oil to olive ascolane packaged in gorgeous little boxes and bottles, there’s everything a foodie’s heart desires, and then some.
14. Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia
This museum, dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci, focuses on the Italian artist’s more technical side. It is well known that he was a prolific creator of mechanical plans and had a keen interest – and obvious talent – for the more functional things in life. His famous flying machine, as well as automobile models based on his plans and drawings, can be seen here. The museum also houses an immense collection of practical objects and machinery such as old war planes, cars, and a submarine. This museum is an ideal choice for families, as there is a focus on bringing science and mechanics to children.
15. Armani Silos
To end this article as fashionably as possible, the choice for last entry fell onto the museum by and about the Italian king of fashion: Giorgio Armani. The man in the black t-shirt has established this collection of over six-hundred of his works to catalog the Armani emporium’s prosperous and groundbreaking decades in the industry. Four themed floors take you from 1980 to today, with a permanent collection being supplemented by several temporary shows by artist’s favored by the designer. You can look at his hand-drawn designs, original dresses worn by the who’s who of the arts and entertainment, and even have free access to the archives to do research if you register in advance. It doesn’t get much more Milan than that.